Fenouil in the Pearl Announces New Chefs, New Menus

Executive Chef Jake Martin and Pastry Chef Kristen D. Murray bring new culinary vision to Fenouil.

PORTLAND, OREGON—March 18, 2010—This month, Fenouil in the Pearl welcomes exciting changes in both the front- and back-of-house with a new chef team and general manager. Owners Chris and Tyanne Dussin of The Dussin Group, Portland, Oregon, are delighted to welcome an exceptionally talented lineup, including Executive Chef Jake Martin, Pastry Chef Kristen D. Murray, and General Manager Ginger Henderson.

Fenouil’s new executive chef, Jake Martin, was destined to his profession—from washing dishes in his hometown of Arcata, California to becoming one of the Pacific Northwest’s rising star chefs. He has worked in some of Seattle’s most praised kitchens. He credits Chef Ethan Stowell for his first big break—realizing his promising potential, Stowell created a sous chef position for Martin at his renowned restaurant, Union. From there, he prospered as chef de cuisine at Veil restaurant, then as sous chef at Maria Hines’ celebrated restaurant, Tilth. Martin accepted his first executive chef position at Carlyle Restaurant in Portland in 2007.

Now at Fenouil, Martin will use his focus on refined technique to produce what he calls a “living menu,” meaning his dishes will constantly evolve and change with the seasons, and even monthly, as produce, fish, and meat become available throughout the year. Fish is his specialty—he uses the freshest possible and a light touch to enhance its natural flavors. Colorful, fancy, and seasonal are words that he uses to describe his style of graceful modern French-influenced cuisine.

After a recent “dress-up” night out in Chicago at the famed Alinea restaurant, Martin realized that there are few, if any, restaurants in Portland where he could put on a jacket, and his wife a cocktail dress, and go out for a special evening. He wants Fenouil to be that place. Of course, at Fenouil, jeans will always be welcome, too.

As a self-taught pastry chef, Kristen Murray’s fortunate and well-calculated career has led her through some of the best kitchens in Los Angeles, San Francisco, New York, and Boston. After working under the tutelage of notable chefs like Alain Rondelli, Claudia Fleming, Marcus Samuelsson and Barbara Lynch, she is now one of Portland’s top pastry chefs.

At Fenouil, Murray’s focus is on traditional French desserts and pastries with a modern twist. As a “flavor purist,” she highlights the base ingredient rather than having many flavors that compete with one another. She thinks of temperatures and textures and how they can be balanced on the palate—her chèvre cheesecake is quite rich, but paired with a fennel blood orange salade and blood orange sorbet the flavors pop, adding perfumed lightness to the dish.

Murray’s desserts are flavor forward, seasonal, clean, and light; not the typical fat- and sugar-laden sweets. Her goal is to let Oregon’s superb ingredients shine, adding a fun textural component. For Sunday Brunch, she is channeling a French patisserie vibe with beautiful pain au chocolat, brioche à tête, madeleines, scones, tatin, and housemade marmalade.

With twenty years of restaurant experience in Chicago, Fenouil’s new general manager, Ginger Henderson, brings big-city hospitality to Portland. Her most recent position was as general manager of North Pond restaurant working with James Beard Award-winning Chef Bruce Sherman. Henderson utilizes her culinary arts degree from The Illinois Institute of Art and extensive wine knowledge to educate her staff, and provide exceptional service to Fenouil diners. A former professional dancer, Ginger has an eye out for Portland’s vibrant art scene. She embraces her new city and neighborhood, and is planting her first victory garden in her SE Portland home.

Sample Dinner Entrées from Executive Chef Jake Martin:

Espadon Confit

confit of pacific swordfish, sauce bretonne, black olive oil, crispy caper

Duo de Bouef

new york and braised short rib, pommes anna, brussel sprouts, beech mushrooms

Coquilles Poêlèe

seared dayboat scallops, ragout of flageolet beans, squid, garlic confit, fines herbes

Blanquette de Veau

braised veal shank, button mushrooms, pearl onions, baby carrots

Magret de Canard Rôti

roasted duck breast, lentils du puy, swiss chard, foie gras jus

Sample Dessert from Pastry Chef Kristen D. Murray:

Heirloom Carrot & Walnut Bouchon

gene thiel’s carrots, candied pineapple, double milk glace