Gruner: Chef Christopher Israel’s Vision

Portland, OR—The vision of Grüner belongs to award-winning restaurateur and chef Christopher Israel.  Inspired by a lifetime of wanderlust and epicurean curiosity, Israel’s newest venture draws on the affinity between the geographies of the Pacific Northwest and the alpine regions of northern Europe. In this decided shift away from the Mediterranean, Israel heads northeast to explore the rugged flavors and seasonal cooking of Northern Italy, France and the Middle European countries. Specialties from regions such as Bavaria, Bohemia and Alto Adige inspire dishes like Roast Duck Breast with Quince and Spiced Red Cabbage, Frisée Salad with Speck, Gruyère and Walnuts, and Buckwheat Spätzle with Rabbit, Wild Mushrooms and Crème Fraîche.

“Grüner is an adventure through the Alps and along the Danube River which begins in the Black Forest and ends at the Black Sea,” Israel explains. “As it passes through Germany, Austria, Hungary, and Romania, an alternate Europe emerges, with a hearty, earthier culinary tradition favoring savory, dill, caraway seeds, crème fraîche, horseradish and paprika as opposed to the more familiar southern flavors of garlic, basil, olive oil, fennel seeds and tomato. Much like the Pacific Northwest, this rich variety of cuisines is woven together by seasons and mountains and rivers.

“I find the region fascinating,” says Israel. “The boundaries of these countries have been fluid over the millennia so there has been an inevitable blending of cultures and cuisines. Modern states, often carved from the spoils of wars, shed little light on the rich history of these former provinces and principalities. From the once dominant Austro-Hungarian empire, which expressed itself in Vienna at the turn of the last century, to the Bauhaus of Weimar Germany, here lies an amazing period in time when artists, writers and musicians were defining the modern experience.”

Grüner, which means “greener” in German, has created a menu featuring the best local foods, beers, and wines. Grüner celebrates the bounty of Oregon’s fruits and vegetables. From farm to table, delivered daily, the kitchen is able to create dishes like German Apple Pancake, White Asparagus with Wild Herb Sauce, Pickled Beets with Horseradish, and Grilled Quail with Sour Cherries. On the bar menu is an exemplary burger, artisanal cured meats, a myriad of regional cheeses, and house-made pickles. Guests may also consider the more focused eating experience of a tasting menu at our chef’s table, which features delicacies like Smoked Trout Mousse with Watercress Sauce, Beef Short Rib Goulash, and Shaved Black Radishes with Sea Salt and Savory.

Inviting and intimate, the bar is an ideal spot to experience unique cocktails, imported German beers and domestic ales, available both on draught and bottled. According to Israel, “On a more basic level, I find the food pairs extremely well with beer and other brewed beverages. Like many Portlanders, I’m a beer drinker, and the food from this region seems like a natural choice for the climate and geography. I think it fits the lifestyle here.” Also, the wine list is elegant and selective, with an emphasis on small producers and biodynamic wineries that complement our dishes. Local small batch distilleries are featured, as well as a choice selection of spirits.

The design of Grüner is functional and handsome with distinctive details like leather place mats and stainless salt cellars. This ambience fosters a lively, bohemian scene, creating an ideal place to gather; discreet and friendly service, modest prices, and cozy alpine cuisine combine to make Grüner an excellent place to feast. Located at 537 SW 12th Avenue, Grüner will open its doors in December 2009.

Christopher Israel is a two-time winner of The Oregonian’s Restaurant of the Year with Zefiro in 1990 and Saucebox in 1997. After serving as Associate Art Director for Vanity Fair in New York City for six years, Israel returned to Portland in 2006 and stepped back into the kitchen as executive chef at 23Hoyt. 23Hoyt was subsequently chosen by Esquire as one of the ten best new restaurants in America in 2007. Israel has been featured in The New York Times, Gourmet, Bon Appetit, Sunset, and Cooking Light, and his recipes have been featured in several cookbooks.

Israel’s partner in this venture is ChefStable LLC. Comprised of four UC Berkeley MBA graduates and led by Kurt Huffman, ChefStable identifies and partners with independent and innovative chefs, contributing both equity investment and comprehensive restaurant management services. Grüner is ChefStable’s second Portland area restaurant following up the opening of PING in the Old Town/Chinatown area.